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Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Alice Palmer SS09 Rocks Knits



By far my favorite new designer I was introduced to during New York fashion week was Alice Palmer. Based in Glasglow, Alice has studied heavily in textiles, specifically the knitted variety. She received her Masters from the Royal College of Art in 2007. Alice presented her work at the Nolcha Fashion Week, as a part of the UK Edition that was held on the second day.



Alice's knit SS09 collection truly invokes a sense of play. The color palette is bright and colorful, mixing cool violets with punchy teal, magenta and purple, with the occasional black and white number thrown into the mix. Hemlines were anything but straight, all of the designs embracing the asymmetrical. Alternating rows of color are spread throughout, but the real art of the pieces lie in their structure. Within the knits, fabrics pucker out playfully, creating a wonderful landscape across the body. Often these projecting points will merge across the garment itself, forming funnels, peaks and caverns of cloth. The results are pieces that feel so much more than simple dress - they are pantone environments, just begging to be explored.



Palmer's style did not stop at simply the garments, but extended to the accessories as well. The show displayed the array of her necklaces, bracelets and hats that Palmer created as well: bold, geometric pieces created with carefully interlaced thread. The models were also decked out in fantastic woven spats, worn slipped over their heels, varying in length from ankle to knee. I am a sucker for spats, and I love the idea of socks being worn over shoes - composed of fine threading and strong rounded ends, these managed to be both delicate and streamlined.



I had the opportunity to speak with Alice after the show. Not only are her designs lovely, but so is she. She was both friendly and modest about her work. This is a designer I look forward to keeping my eye on.







You can find more of Alice's work on her website, here. I have already begun gazing upon the lookbook, longing for one of her sweet little violet numbers...

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Monday, September 29, 2008

The Next Best Thing

There's nothing more troublesome than not being able to get your hands on something you desperately covet. But rather than hanging my head and dwelling in self-pity, I try to make the best out of the situation: mainly, by finding a good alternative to the things I desire.

The most recent case of this has been 2 particular pair of shoes. The Dries Van Noten patent wedges from 2007, and Gucci's AW08 babouska shoes.


Photo snatched from Nubby Twiglet

The Dries Van Noten wedges are beings of absolutely weird, gorgeous construction. I love how they make the foot look similar to a hoof, how all parts of the shoe just meld into each other to make this strong, solid shape. Integrating the oxofrd lace-up style I have come to love, they also look like a foot support dream. However, as much as I love this shoe, it is a star crossed infatuation, as these shoes have proven completely impossible to find. I have searched around enough to say with authority that there are no more of these shoes left in existence (unless you are Nubby, who I have learned on good authority has been selling her soul in shares to score 2 pairs of these).



The other shoe, the Gucci, is much easier to find, but just totally out of my price range. I absolutely adored Gucci's AW08 collection, with the bohemian-military-pirate look, but the babouska shoe was the particular piece that just completely stole my heart. I love how they resemble ornamental old-world bells or trinkets, but also have that tough, punk edge to them as well.

Suffice to say, I have been keeping my eyes peeled for suitable alternatives to both shoes, and I am pleased to report that I have struck pay dirt. Behold, my next-best-things:





The top shoe is made by Poetic License. I spied these in a shop in the city, and nearly flipped. Ok, they don't completely resemble the Dries, but the molded heel construction is similar enough that I am satisfied, as that is the part of the shoe I truly love. And there are so many things about this shoe that I adore in its own right. The color is a sumptuous, glossy, burgundy-red, with a popping red suede stripe running along the side. They close up with a velcro strap across the top, and are by far the cutest, weirdest mary janes I have ever seen. They are also impossibly comfy to wear.



The Jeffrey Campbell shoes I have taken to calling the "I Can't Believe It's not Gucci." I have been a huge fan of Campbell's shoes for some time, and own several pairs - as a brand, I have come to rely on them as well built, affordable shoes, with fantastic variety of styles. These shoes not only look fantastic, but they are the most comfortable heels I have ever worn. I attribute this to the fact that the shoe itself is constructed much like a sling, and the leather is supple enough that it gives just enough that the entire thing molds to your foot. I cannot generally wear very tall shoes, and I love how these look tall, but due to their platform are actually quite reasonable to walk around in.



I am utterly in love with these shoes, and will be wearing them alot this season. Here are two of the first outfits I whipped together to wear them with...


Thursday, 9/18:Sweater: Thrifted, Shorts: Charlotte Russe, Socks: $1 Store, Shoes: Poetic License, Watch: Bulova


Wednesday, 9/24:Dress: Vintage Shop in Harajuku, Cardigan: Etsy, Belt: Thrifted, Tights: Sockdreams, Shoes: Jeffrey Campbell, Necklace: Gift

Now, if you'll excuse me, I'll be subsisting on Saltines, as I have blown my budget through the roof...but it was worth it!

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Friday, September 26, 2008

Week in Wardrobe: 9/19 - 9/25


Friday, 9/19:Top: Joyce Leslie, Tank: Thrifted Necessary Objects, Jeans: Levi's Red, Shoes: Shoegasm, Necklace: Smart Glass Necklace by Kathleen Plate, Watch: Bulova

OW. It's pouring in and around New York, and on my way to work this morning, I slipped on the wet escalator in the PATH station, and completely spilled out all over the steps. About 8 people ran over to make sure I was ok, which was nice. The cops were really angry that the PATH had left the escalator on in weather like this. Now I feel generally crummy, and my back feels rather bruised. Aw shucks, I am such an accident magnet...


Monday, 9/22:Shirt: Thrifted J.Crew, Tie: Thrifted, Shorts: Thrifted, Tights: Sockdreams, Boots: Sigerson Morrison for Target, Watch: Bulova

Today, is crummy and wet, and I am lounging in my favorite t-shirt and a pair of jeans, longing for better weather that does not require galoshes and waterproofing. My plans for camping this weekend have been utterly crushed by this terrible weather. Fortunately, the alternative of hanging around inside and allowing the world to flood as I putter about and watch "Heros" does not sound half bad. Still, I am keeping my fingers crossed for a climate miracle. At least I can gaze upon the outfits I got to wear this week for inspiration.


Tuesday, 9/23:Top: Gap, Blazer: Thrifted, Jeans: Thrifted, Boots: Miss Sixty

Last week, I was INCREDIBLY naughty, and went on a bit of a shoe-buying binge (because, you know, the thing I desperately need more of is SHOES *eye-roll*). I have effectively blown my budget until November (eek!), but I regret nothing, as I am totally in love with the kicks I scored: a pair of amazing wedges and Gucci knock-offs. I will be showing them off in all their glory for you come Monday.


Thursday, 9/25:Shirt: Rainbow, Cardigan: Gap, Long Cardigan: Yaya Aflalo, Trousers: H&M, Belt: Charlotte Russe, Socks: Thrifted, Boots: Ebay, Watch Bulova

I am tired and grumpy, and I am blaming the weather. I will now go get some tea, and hope it's rejuvenative powers can get me out of this funk. O, to be sleeping...

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Thursday, September 25, 2008

Inspiration Machine 12


Clockwise from left: abless, abless, FrizzText, kitty227

1. Name your computer.

2. Display your shoes by color or height.

3. If you could create your own personal sanctuary, what would it be? Where would it be?

4. Take a moment to feel everything you touch.

5. Make a collage/digital video of all your favorite things.

6. What is your mantra?

7. Outline the steps of your spiritual quest.

8. If you could have your own magazine, what would you name it? What would it be about?

9. Listen to opera.

10. Begin planning the trip of a lifetime.

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Wednesday, September 24, 2008

My Daily Covet - New & Improved!

Trying something a little different this time with the Daily Covet. It occurred to me, "Hey, why don't I show MORE THAN ONE thing at a time?" - and then promptly smacked myself for not thinking it up before. Therefore, I present to you the new-and-improved Daily Covet, replete with NUMBERS....Oooooooooo...



1. Hel Looks: Anni
This girl's ability to mix patterns is spot on.

2. Tibi - El Dorado High Neck Dress
The cut, the bold pattern, the color - there is nothing that I do not adore about this dress.

3. "Hearts Wallow" by Insa
Amazing graffiti artist, Insa, takes the universal heart into to the next level with this gorgeous piece of art.

4. tokidoki Meletta Mimobot
I keep fantasizing about keeping this little monkey in my purse for file transport emergencies. It cracks me up how grumpy he is!

5. Tarina Tarantino X kidrobot - Labbit Ring on Beaded Band (White w/ Mustache)
Mustaches? Bunnies? Jewelry? Hell yes.

6. Tory Burch Canvas Lux T Tote
More big, bold patterns, please. This thing is like hot geometry.

7. ID Browns 0304355
I am shocked and delighted by the amount of oxfords available this season, particularly since I was searching like crazy for them just a few months ago. This pair are especially aces.

8. VPL Cashmere Poncho
One of my favorite things about fall is being able to bust out the giant chunky sweaters. This one would make a posh addition to any collection.

Also, this video is simply dazzling. It's like DIY crafts meet cooking, and I cannot get enough of it...

Western Spaghetti

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Tuesday, September 23, 2008

SS09 Runway Review: Sarar / Eva Zissu / Royal Sunday at Nolcha



As I have said previously, my favorite shows by far during Fashion Week were the smaller shows, highlighting up-and-coming fashion houses and independent designers with talent bursting from every seam. By far my favorite shows were hosted at Nolcha. Nolcha is a global fashion industry network that works to introduce designers from around the world to the world at large, and Nolcha fashion week is a presentation of selected designers work to a national audience.

Nolcha shows run a bit differently than your regular tent show. For starters, besides the main show, the location plays host to numerous smaller, independent designers that display their collections in a gallery setting. It is quite pleasant to walk around before and after shows, and find yourself surrounded by even more stunning work than simply the show itself. Nolcha also varies from a standard show in that each show hosts multiple designers, varying from three to roughly a dozen. As fashion shows tend to happen absurdly fast, I feel this is an excellent variation - who ever complained about having to see more great fashion?

Nolcha kicked off this season with three designers of varyied talents: SARAR (high-end menswear), Eva Zissu (handbags and accessories) and Royal Sunday (street style). Of the three, SARAR is by far the most established brand, having been in the business for over 60 years. SARAR is Turkey-based company that was established in 1944 by Abdullahman Sarar, specializing in elegant, finely made menswear. Though this company has had a rich history, the last few years have been particularly developmental for them as a brand. In 2005, SARAR launched their CSS brand to a more middle-income audience, and have also opened their line to include women's wear. Over the last few years they have opened numerous flagship stores worldwide, the most recent in Manhattan. This Nolcha show marked their first ever fashion show.

Simply put, SARAR makes beautiful clothes. Not only is each piece exquisitely tailored, but the materials used in their creation are pieces of art in their own right. Rich, tactile tweeds, wool, and cottons and silks dominate in this collection, the result being a suit that is less a garment than a companion, a piece that is sure to last in both quality and style for the next 10 years.



This timeless style and quality also translated into the women's wear line, whose pieces were feminine and appealing, while being sturdy and well-formed. The central area of attention in most pieces were the necks, which were decked in Victorian-reminiscent ruffles, high collars, bows and ties. There was a sense of propriety and modesty in these pieces that was simply delectable.



Eva Zissu was shown after SARAR, and her bright, vivacious handbags proved an interesting counterpoint to the classicism of the previous collection. Former model, turned buyer, turned boutique owner, recently turned handbag designer, this Caracas native can whip up a bag as hot as the South American sun. Built heavily on animal print and unique leather, these bags are not for the faint-hearted or demure dame. Sizes were big and bold in flat, envelope-thin clutches and massive duffels as models strutted out with no less than three in tow, sporting matching vests and cowboy hats. With bags so striking, it should only be a matter of time until every celebrity with a bit of spunk is carrying one of these hot little numbers.



The final collection to be displayed was Royal Sunday, a Swiss design label launched in 2006, innaugurating its entrance into the U.S. Market through Nolcha's show. Royal Sunday touts that its items that are all hand tailored, finished with unique metal accents, and intended for a young, fashion-conscious generation. True to its word, RS's line did have a number of intriguing metal accents. I particularly liked the metal studded elbow patch adorning a leather jacket, and the grommets used as a form of decoration on t-shirts and slacks. With any sort of embellishment, there's always the risk that the "look" will take second stage to the "effect" - which I feel did occur in many of these pieces. It just feels like a lot of the outfits are vehicles for the effect being presented, rather than standing as strong designs in their own right. However, they are a still a very new label, and if they can hone their clothing designs into as sweet a trick as their embellishments, we're gonna have a contender on our hands.

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Monday, September 22, 2008

In Memoriam: Nagi Noda



It is with a heavy heart that I report that Nagi Noda, a brilliant art director, grand imaginer, and my personal hero, passed away on September 7, 2008, from surgical complications due to injuries sustained in a traffic accident last year. Nagi Noda was just 35 years old - it's always terrible when someone so young dies, but when that person is so full of talent and inspiration, it is all the more upsetting. Nagi was at such an exciting moment in her career, her work reaching a broader audience and receiving greater acclaim than ever before. The work she would have created in the next decade I am sure would have been even more brilliant and inspiring than anything that came before it, and it saddens me deeply to know that we will never be able to experience it.



As a designer, Ms. Noda followed the path that is every designer's dream: from her humble beginnings in print advertising, Nagi's work won her such acclaim that it wasn't long before she was working with larger company's, such as Nike and Laforet Harajuku. But it wasn't until Nagi took the step into directing commercials and music videos through her self-created production company, Uchu Country Ltd., that the world got to see just how much talent and creativity this petite girl could conjure up.





By far Nagi Noda's most popular and recognized work is her viral video entitled "Ex-Fat Girl," which Nagi both directed and starred in. In the video, Nagi plays the part of a spunky, formerly overweight aerobics instructor, who guides the viewer through a series of exercises guaranteed to give you a perfect "poodle-like" figure, complete with round pom-pom growths on your arms, calves and even hair. Her students in the video are disturbingly human bipedal poodles in leotards, who mystify the viewer as they go through the exercises with Nagi doing squats, arm-crunches, and bends.



Nagi Noda's work captured magic, plain and simple. It expressed an innocence and delight in the simple illusions we can create as individuals, teasing and tantalizing us with the potential for surreal in things we took for granted. Nagi Noda's work never tried to dazzle with the complexity of its effects, but rather used simple methods that were never hidden or obscured. The "how" of the process would be visible to the viewer, and add to the wonder and art of the work. For instance, in the music video "Sentimental Journey" by the artist, Yuki, Noda captures Yuki's entire day of actions through the remarkably effective yet utterly simple trick of positioning dozens of girls posed in small gestures; when panned across, each girls actions relate to the ones beside her, and simulate activity. It is clear to the viewer from the very start that these are girls wearing wigs to resemble Yuki, and a close up shot at the beginning even proves that many of them don't even particularly resemble the singer. However, there is almost a tangible moment when the illusion takes hold in the work, and the viewer "sees" the magic, even with the strings in view. In fact, the strings make the magic far more believable and captivating.


Saturday, 9/14:"Sentimental Journey" by Yuki

We can count ourselves fortunate that Nagi Noda did leave us with one final piece of art. Noda's final completed project was a music video for J-pop star, MEG, for her song "Precious." The video utilizes an old Japanese theatre technique called kuroko, in which objects are manipulated by actors completely hidden in black. It is a video that culminates all the great aspects of Nagi Noda's work: whimsy, the surreal, simple effects and fantastic dose of imagination. I personally can think of no better piece to leave us with.



Nagi, we will miss you so much. And I hope wherever you are now, it is filled with hair tigers and dancing cats.



Also Read:

CMYKaboom's previous piece on Nagi Noda

Nagi's character line of half-panda, half-other-creature hybrid furries: Hanpanda

The Coveted's Farewell to Nagi Noda:
"I’ll miss your hair hats and poodle arms…."

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Friday, September 19, 2008

Week in Wardrobe: 9/12 - 9/17


Friday, 9/12:Sweater: Thrifted, Vest: Thrifted, Skirt: Gap, Shoes: Target, Watch: Bulova

Well, it finally happened - I am dressing for fall. I have to say, it's been pretty great. The weather in New York has been wonderful - full of cool breezes and a slight, refreshing chill in the air on gray and yellow mornings. I have been having a world of fun rummaging through my closet, digging out all my favorite sweaters and tights and cozy things.


Saturday, 9/14:Top: Victoria's Secret, Shorts: H&M, Shoes: Wholesale shop in NYC, Belt: Thrifted, Scarf: Joyce Leslie, Watch: Bulova

On Saturday, I hopped over to Gala and Nubby's Birthday Party in Central Park, and enjoyed cupcakes, warm weather, and wonderful conversation with awesome girls. It was quite a warm day, so I stuck to shorts and high hair. Fiance Kaboom! said I looked like a Bond villain, which simply delighted me. It's always a pleasure to meet with fellow writers and artists whose work I respect. Of course, I am a complete dunderhead, and was so wrapped up in enjoying myself and didn't take too many pics. Still, I'll be posting some shortly. Between Fashion Week and all the trimmings, I am still up to my ears in reviews and articles to entertain you with, my fine readers.


Monday, 9/15:Dress: Boutique in Harajuku, Vest: Thrifted, Necklace: Street Vendor, Cuff: James the Leather man, Watch: Bulova, Shoes: Calvin Klein, Bag: Micheal Kors

On the way back from the party, I took a detour over to Target's Bullseye Bodega. I had some slight reservations about going, as I had heard mixed reviews about the goods and the crowds, but I guess I got lucky, as when I went their really weren't too many visitor's, and still some pretty rad stuff available.


Tuesday, 9/16:Cardigan: Love Yaya, Tunic: Zara (Buffalo Exchange), Pants: Converse for Target, Shoes: Sigerson Morrison for Target, Watch: Bulova

I ended up getting three things: a Jonathan Saunders skirt decked out in his signature colorful splatters, a pair of tuxedo trousers made by Converse, and super cute suede Sigerson Morrison booties (I am wearing the trousers and booties in the pick above). I wore the shoes on Tuesday, and was shocked by how comfortable they were for heels - it felt like I was running about in sneakers all day. Definitely going to wear these out.


Wednesday, 9/17:Cardigan: Love Yaya, Shirt: Thrifted J.Crew, Cami: J.Crew, Skirt: Thrifted, Boots: Thrifted, Necklace: Erica Weiner, Belt: Vintage Shop in Harajuku

The cool weather has also allowed me to finally start wearing the AMAZING long cardigan I snatched up at the Yaya Aflalo sample sale I went to a month or so ago (worn above). I can't tell you how much I love this thing: I is incredibly cozy and comfy, and I felt very lucky to have it when everyone started complaining the office was getting chilly (my office may as well have no walls, it is so affected by the weather). I am a bit of a dwarf height-wise - so it's nice that the cardigan is long, but doesn't look overwhelming. I am going to be wearing this ALOT this season!

Also, this Wednesday I went to the Green Gallery Eco Press Showcase, which spotlighted designers who create fashion from environmentally sustainable materials. I was really blown away by much of the stuff there, and the inventiveness and talent of the designers to create remarkable things from bamboo, tires, old billboards and beer bottles, just to name a few.

As I said before, I have looooads of interesting posts coming up about fashion shows, events, and amazing designers, so stick around, it should be pretty interesting around here!

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Thursday, September 18, 2008

Inspiration Machine 10


Clockwise from left: ieganai, Zack Schnepf, boboniaa, shoobydoo

1. Lose yourself in an adventure.

2. Describe what your perfect bag would be: size, color, fit, magical powers...

3. If you could have a super power, what would it be? Why?

4. If you could have any creature on Earth for a pet, what would you choose?

5. Take your old tights and stockings and make banging wristlets from them.

6. Make a quilt from all your favorite worn out clothing.

7. Start planning your fantastic Day of the Dead party.

8. Spend 20 seconds laughing everyday.

9. Start keeping a diary.

10. Make the decision to never dwell on disappointment.

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Wednesday, September 17, 2008

SS09 Runway Review: Doucette Duvall



Aw, what can I say about the Doucette Duvall show? I will say this, that my most surprising lesson from Fashion Week was how much more I thoroughly enjoyed the smaller, independent shows to the large-scale tent shows. Not only did the shows feel much more intimate and gratifying, but the work in them really blew my socks off, particularly the Doucette Duvall show, and the Nolcha shows, which I will reporting on in the next few days.



The show took place in Rockefeller Plaza, which immediately made me and several other attendees curious, as the plaza is not known for having an area to accommodate a catwalk. Upon arriving, we quickly discovered why one was not necessary: the label had made the decision to have the models stand in place, and the audience to move. The room was exquisitely designed with gold-gilt framed photographs of the collection, and a few lovely pieces of furniture for the models to pose around. In order to guide the flow of traffic, green apples had been placed along the floor, creating a delicate, delicious footpath. Everything was sweet and novel about the presentation, from the adorable foot socks worn by many of the models, to the tiny, bite-size cheeseburgers and fries that were being served as hors dourves throughout the presentation.



The collection itself was simply breathtaking. Classic forms were implemented and subtly upgraded with exquisite details of bows, scalloped edges, cloth roses and careful ruffles. These details provided soft, feminine touches that were perfectly suited to the tried and true cuts. Fabric prints were either floral or striped, which immediately brings to mind the french millinery period for me, though there was something extremely Americana and uppercrust to the feeling of the collection. I was very pleased to see well-spaced florals in the prints, rather than the jammed-up florals we have been seeing in the past seasons - there is something so much more delicate and timeless about these than the current trend to jam as many flowers into as small a scrap of fabric as possible.



The collection felt like it perfectly captured the moment of prepubescence longing for womanhood - outfits that felt innocent yet utterly sexually appealing - "Lolita" immediately comes to mind, which I always felt was positively wrong term for those ridiculous doll outfits worn by so many Japanese cosplay kids. Anyone who has read "Lolita" (which is an absolutely AMAZING book, and I highly reccommend), knows that THIS is the sexiness Nabakov writes of - that divine Americana innocence of the young girl trying to climb into the skin of womanhood.



The choice to have the models stand in one place was an excellent one. There was something so fitting about the outfits being caught in leisurely tableaus rather than rushed by the eye upon a catwalk. The coquettishness that resulted from models posing for numerous cameras focused on them by passerbys only aided to that sense of shy innocence, resulting in the perfect impressions of the costumes "in their natural habitat". It also reminded me of a prom or dinner party, with young girls being the the somewhat unwilling subject of photographs and attention thrust on them by relatives. The apples were also the perfect accessory: what better model of America, and also of temptation.



Stephanie Doucette and Annebet Duvall are big participants of environmental sustainability in their line. They manufacture their entire collections in New York City's historic garment district, and as well as contributing proceeds to Build it Green. Each collection they include a "little green dress" : a piece utilizing pre-existing fabric and trim as a reminder of their commitment to "Madame Earth." I am not sure if the green dress on the left is that dress from that collection, but a part of me thinks it might be, and it is certainly the most fitting, as it has "Earth Mother" written all over it, and is one of my favorites.



I have never been one to like things overstated - give me a feather to a sledgehammer any day of the week. And the thing I love about this collection is how subtle the grace in the pieces is - how it accomplishes making the woman wearing them look "dressed up" without being "dressed up" - which to me is the ultimate goal of fashion, creating a second skin that is intuitively suited to the wearer. It's even more inspiring to know that such lovely garments a coming from a line that is only 3 years old. Keep your eyes on Doucell Duvette - they will continue to make utterly covetable outfits, mark my words.

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Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Mixtape 4: Fall in Apart


"Lookout" by caese

Well, it's September again. This month always feels so inevitable, like this is the starting point of the circle of the year - forget January, for me, THIS is the season of new beginnings. There's something utterly comforting about September, like it's the day after that huge party you went to last night, held by your friend Summer. And as awesome and wild as that party was, there's nothing quite like that feeling of relief and satisfaction you have the next day, when you can crawl into your favorite sweatpants and reminisce upon all that fun. That's what September is like. Except you won't see me caught dead in sweatpants.

This mix is a bit more laid back, a bit more subtle than the previous. Put it on with a cup of tea on a gray day. Lay on your couch, remember those days of warmth, and look forward to the cool days ahead.



The Playlist:
Bob Dylan - Tonight I'll Be Staying Here With You
Andrew Bird - Imitosis
Minus the Bear - Monkey!!! Knife!!! Fight!!!
Rodrigo y Gabriela - Paris
Sufjan Stevens - For the Widows in Paradise, for the Fatherless in Ypsilanti
The Knife - Heartbeats
Nicole Atkins - Under The Milky Way
M83 - Kim & Jessie (Montag Remix)
A Sunny Day In Glasgow - A Mundane Phonecall to Jack Parsons
Gang Gang Dance - House Jam
Elvis Perkins - It's Only Me
Beirut - The Penalty

(Special thanks to thescrabbled.com for helping me host my mixtapes in Muxtapes' hour of need)

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Sunday, September 14, 2008

SS09 Runway Review: Gottex



There's something so hopeful about viewing a new swimsuit collection in September. It almost makes the upcoming winter seem like a momentary diversion from the excellent summer that awaits just a few calendar pages away. And what better way to fantasize about next summer than by viewing vivacious, dramatic suits by Gideon Oberson, in a collection that is as bold and bright as it is novel.



The collection centered heavily on objects incorporated into the apparel: anchors, orchids, leaves and even chopsticks were integrated into suits in all manner of curious ways. And while a few presented what might be considered slight physical debilitations (I am quite curious as to how one is supposed to swim in a suit with two chopsticks poking into your belly), the LOOK was really fantastic and inspiring. I particularly enjoy the anchor series, which utilizes ship anchors as the connector between the top and bottom of the suits. It never occurred to me how feminine the shape of an anchor actually was until Oberson laid it over the form of a woman, and now that he has I can't believe it is not used more often in this manner.


Images courtesy of Wire Image (via NYPost)

My only concern about this collection is that some of the reliance on objects could at times come precariously close to swinging over into kitsch; the worst offender a leaf encrusted shift, is a diaphanous affair whose bodice is entirely composed of gold-leaf leaves. The piece seemed more suited for a scene in Elizabeth Taylor's "Cleopatra" than the runway - it just felt a bit too theatrical for my tastes. However, this really was the only piece I didn't like in this collection - and I tip my hat to Gottex for successfully walking that thin red line between artistic and odd.

My positively favorite piece in the collection is the black orchid shift. The piece was one of the more abstract outfits in the collection, composed of soft lines, flowing, diaphanous material and an image of an orchid so enlarged it resembles a piece of modern art more than a flower. Sexy and casual, I could see this as easily paired for a night out as with a pair of jeans - i utterly covet it.



Oberson also gets kudos for integrating many decorations that would seem downright tricky to translate into swimwear. For instance, this was the last show I anticipated seeing fringe at, but lo and behold, Gottex has managed to create a fringe bathing suit top that bears all the elegance of a mink stole. The big bow bikini was also quite a pleaser.



Of course, I was positively tickled to see my beloved ombre made an appearance too, in a brilliant transition from tan to pink to orange. Good to see that this is a style that continues to be explored more this upcoming spring.

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Friday, September 12, 2008

Week in Wardrobe: NYC FASHION WEEK!

It was the best of times, it was the...best of times!! Holy smokes, what a week. The outfits, the models, the smoozing..it lived up to everything I imagined it would be.

The most asked question I got from friends and acquaintances was, "What are you wearing?" Good question! If there is ever a reason to get dressed up, Fashion Week is certainly the reason. It was actually a very fun seeing what I could come up with, especially since you want to coordinate your outfit with the show.

Over the next week, I will be posting extensively about all the shows I went to, the people I met, my reviews and favorites. But for now, here is a sneak peek at what I wore to the shows!


Friday, 09/05

Friday, 09/05: Rubin Singer
Dress: Gift
Cardigan: Thrifted
Boots: Miss Sixty
Bag: Micheal Korrs
Necklace: Buddhist Prayer Beads
Watch: Bulova


Sunday, 09/07

Sunday, 09/07: HOUSE OF CASETTE
Top: Velvet skirt from Ross
Leggings: American Apparel
White Lace Skirt: Made by my mom
Shoes: Miss Sixty
Bangle: Etsy
Erica Weiner Necklace & Necklace made my my mom


Monday, 09/08

Monday, 09/08: GOTTEX
Dress: Gap
Ribbon: Joyce Leslie
Boots: eBay
Watch: Bulova


Tuesday, 09/09

Tuesday, 09/09: DUCETTE DUVAL
Dress: Diane Von Furstenberg
Leggings: American Apparel
Socks: Target
Belt: Thrifted
Shoes: Joyce Leslie
Watch: Bulova
Necklace: Accumulated Charms


Thursday, 09/11

Thursday, 09/11: NOLCHA
Blouse: Thrifted
Jacket: Thriftes Yves Saint Laurent
Shorts: Thrifted
Tights: Sock Dreams
Shoes: Payless

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Thursday, September 11, 2008

Inspiration Machine 10


Clockwise from left: ieganai, borfis_, gwen bell, ieganai

1. Dress to clash.

2. Dress in homage of your favorite artist.

3. If you could choose one supernatural thing to actually exist, what would it be?

4. Tell secrets to flowers.

5. Make a mixtape of all your favorite songs from high school.

6. If you could have a one night affair with anyone on the planet, free of guilt or repercussions, who would it be?

7. Paint your nails the color wheel.

8. Braid scarves into your hair.

9. Invest in and learn to play ukulele.

10. What would your Inspiration Machine look like?


Let's here and see some magic, kids.

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Wednesday, September 10, 2008

SS09 Runway Review: House of Cassette



House of Casette is an independent fashion label based in Los Angeles. The brand is spearheaded by Peter James Lee, a designer who has traveled extensively, and formerly worked for Puma.



Cassette's fashion is built upon strong, well crafted basics, and Sunday's collection was no exception. Menswear definitely dominated the night, perfecting mens' slim shorts and trousers in tight tailoring and careful form. Tops and outerwear held a schoolyard flare: whether tough bully, nerd, or reform school good boy. Men's shorts have been slowly rising in the ranks in terms of formality and popularity, and Cassette continued and perfected this trend, pairing slim shorts with dress shirts, cardigans and bow ties. I find the effect totally captivating: I feel it makes the men look like they are mature, yet still hold that element of youthful innocence. Cassette prides itself in not being over processed, and the tactility of the simple fabrics was palpable. The majority of pieces were in black, I imagine to optimize utility.



Womenswear kept it simple and well sculpted, concentrating on blousy tops and dresses, many inspired or spun off from the simple t-shirt, and trousers tight and tapered. Hemlines were kept short, often paired with tights and leggings. I particularly liked the hooded jacket (shown above), carefully formed in such a way that it accomplished the "hiding" look without the making it look like it was overwhelming the wearer.



Cassette brands itself as a avant-garde fashion house, and I think it was just those anti-establishment choices that are the main reasons for the reservations I came away with in this show. Particularly, I found it hard to resolve a spring collection that could be so determinedly centered around a black color palette, though I can understand the sentiment. The pieces were great basics - the kind of items you could feel being a part of an outfit, but not the center of it. Garments were strongly constructed and brilliantly formed, but also very "safe": I would have enjoyed seeing boundaries pushed a bit out of current popular trend. By the end of the show, when the models came out for their final walk decked in Cassette's notoriously brilliant array of colorful jeans, I felt a wash of relief to finally see a bit of color. However, let it be said that I am nothing if not an extremely colorful person - monochronism is a style I have pondered and written about in the past, and there is something inherently in it that I have a hard time fathoming and digesting.



All in all, I feel the House of Cassette is a fashion house with a lot of talent in the wings. They appear to be making clothes that many people desire to wear, conforming to the wearer's needs rather than trying to determine it for them, a sentiment I can respect, if not agree to entirely. I look forward to seeing what they turn out in the next few years, and whether time will bring with it the ability to take more risks, and really blow us all away.

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Monday, September 8, 2008

SS09 Runway Review: Rubin Singer



Rubin Singer is a designer with a head for elegance, and his newest collection once more taps into his classic-fresh aesthetic, incorporating fun pop elements into classic fashion forms.


Images courtesy of Coutorture.com

Stripes and polka-dots are leveraged with careful grace in much of the evening wear, colored in strong blacks and lovely champagne hues. The combination is timeless, yet not as severe as the black/white duo often associated with these forms. Whether it's popping dots on a full length gown, or bold candy-stripes on a short no-nonsense number, the results are dresses that succeed in being both extremely elegant and divinely fun. The music played during the display of these pieces was built around lines by Sinatra, who I feel really encapsulates the spirit of these outfits - that suave formality, with a charming, devilish sense of fun.


Images courtesy of Coutorture.com

Outerwear was also very notable in this collection, playing off of dramatic, bold shapes and larger-than-life details. Audible praise could be heard in the audience at the appearance of the champagne jacket, bearing an over-sized hood and striped interior. A cool silver woodgrain fabric was a nice counterpoint to the warmth of the champagne/black combinations, and a unique way to modernize such an organic design.


Images courtesy of Coutorture.com

Prints were splashy and painterly, shown in either a vivacious wash of orange, blues and violet or a subtler inky blue, whose mountain and fan shapes seem to carry an Asian influence. Pieces utilizing these fabrics were less structured, and more loose and flowing, centering on the movement of the fabric to fully convey the loose movement translated in the fabric print.

All together, the collection was a brilliant introduction to Fashion Week - Singer is a classic designer, and his collection this season is an exciting preview of the season to come.

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Friday, September 5, 2008

Week in Wardrobe: 8/28 - 9/4


Friday, 8/28:Top: Etsy Headquarters, Hoodie: Joyce Leslie?, Skirt: Yaya Aflalo, Short Necklace: Erica Weiner, Long Necklace: Navajo Dreamcatcher, Boots: Thrifted, Cuff: James the Leatherman, Watch: Bulova

I finally got to wear the amazing skirt I picked up at the Yaya Aflalo sample sale last week. I am utterly in love with the thing, and pics don't do it nearly enough justice. The fabric is sheer and diaphanous, and moves like a breeze when I walk. And the colors pop like crazy - some might consider it bordering on garish, but I can't get enough of it.

Yesterday I picked up my press credentials for Fashion Week! Tomorrow I will be attending my first runway show: Rubin Singer SS09 collection. Is it bad I still have no idea what I am going to wear? Woops! Anyway, full report coming, of course. It should be a pretty interesting week in these parts.


Tuesday, 9/2:Top: Gap, Skirt: Chaus, thrifted, Sandals: thrifted, Cuff: James the Leatherman, Watch: Bulova

Other fun things of note this week include: watching tennis in Madison Park (and eating at the Shake Shack...Mmmmmm), manicure/pedicures with the ladies, finally reading "Twilight" (it lives up to the hype - get on it NOW people!), going to yoga after a 3 week hiatus (this weekend the word will be "SORE"), finally having a somewhat clean apartment (much thanks to Fiance Kaboom for his vacuuming magic).

I'd also like to send out a very special welcome back to Gala, who has returned to New York. The city shines a little brighter when she's in it ;)


Thursday, 9/4:Dress: H&M, Skirt: Gap, Vest: John Varvatos for Converse, Sandals: Gap, Necklace: Navajo Dreamcatcher, Watch: Bulova

Some weeks just leave me feeling very lucky for all the wonderful things and people in my life. Between work, friends and Fiance Kaboom, a girl couldn't ask for more.

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Thursday, September 4, 2008

Inspiration Machine 9


Clockwise from left: Divisible Eye, victoriarikaheke, lebonbonmulticolore, borfis_

1. Take a photo each day of something you love. At the end of the year, print out books of the photos to give to your friends and loved ones.

2. Keep a book of beautiful names and words.

3. Make a pile of all the seasonal clothes you haven't worn in 6 months. Each day, grab a piece from the pile and try to make an outfit around it. If you can't, chuck it out!

4. Reread the first book you ever read.

5. If you had a zoo, what animals would you fill it with?

6. Buy a bouquet of all your favorite flowers. Keep them in your home, or give them out to the people you encounter through the day.

7. Paint a dress, shirt, pair of jeans.

8. Start planning your Halloween costume.

9. Go horseback riding.

10. What would your hot air balloon be in the shape of?

I'd love to hear some answers to 5 and 10 - or better yet, what's in your Inspiration Machine?

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Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Leg Warming For Fall

With cool weather on the horizon, now is an excellent time to start stocking up on those pieces of apparel that will prove so lifesaving when the chilly days arrive. For me, the most important article I am stocking up on is legwear. I am an enormous baby when it comes to cold weather, so it's important that I have fall clothing that is both cute and warm - and nothing is better equipped to handle this than a great pair of tights or leggings.

My favorite place to purchase tights, leggings and socks is Sockdreams.com. I first blogged about Sockdreams several years ago, when I had another blog, entitled Pieeyeddesign.com. Since then, I am happy to report that Sockdreams has branched out - they now have a physical storefront in Portland, and their online selection is better than ever.


Clockwise from Left Simone's Argyle Tights in Dark Orange, Simone's Wide Striped Tights in Wine,Simone's Argyle Tights in Dark Green,Simone's Wide Striped Tights in Navy

The one thing to note about Sockdreams.com is that their inventory changes constantly - which is great for selection, but it's wise to keep in mind that if you see something you like, you should grab it up fast! Hopping on last night, I couldn't help but grab up a few styles that were being removed from their inventory permanently. These will be perfect for those fall and winter days when I will be desperate to keep my legs warm.



Clockwise from Left American Apparel Shiny Legging in Eel, SockDreams Ribbed Cotton Tights in Black, American Apparel Shiny Legging in Lame' Black

Another staple for this autumn and fall are black leggings. Warm and adaptable, they are a great touch to any cool weather outfit. Even better, there are a mind blowing selection available today, in a variety of colors, styles and sizes. I nabbed up three new pairs for this fall: a standard knit set from SockDreams, and two sets of shiny leggings from American Apparel in Black Eel and Lame' Black. The Lame' Black have a matte, almost rubber look, which will be perfect to spice up and warm up any short dresses and skirts. A good tip is that you can also purchase leggings in a size up, to create a looser, more pants-like piece (just make sure the booty doesn't sag ;), which is just what I did with the Black Eel style. Since the leg is longer on a larger size, the leggings bunch a bit around my ankles, creating a fun, casual look that will be perfect for large tops and sweaters.

For all tights and leggings, the most important thing to remember is CARE. Leggings need to be treated with kid gloves to maintain their elasticity, color and quality. Read the care directions carefully on all pairs you purchase. If directions state that machine washing can be used, make sure you invest in a laundry bag to pop them in, or you might find yourself out one pair of leggings, and in one enormous KNOT. Personally, I find the best method of care is to hand wash your tights and leggings in warm water with a little bit of Woolite, and then hang dry. It also tends to feel very glamorous hanging hosiery all over your pad (though I am sure Fiance Kaboom would disagree;).

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Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Birthday Haul and Amazing News



I am still reeling from all the wonderful presents I received for my birthday!

Here's the list:

- a giant assortment of Japanese magazines, cosmetic bags, sweets & stationery
- a floral blouse
- my own yukata!
- 2 pairs of shiny silver shoes from Aerosoles
- Betty Boop slippers
- "Sweet Needle Felts" book on felting (along with a ton of felt, not pictured)
- complete works of Hans Christian Anderson
- Phoenix Wright: Ace Attorney for Nintendo DS
- Gift Certificates to Barnes & Noble and Victoria's Secret (not shown)
- Twin Peaks: The Definitive Gold Box Edition (not shown)
- moneys

Thank you so much to everyone who got me something, or helped me celebrate, or wished me birthday wishes. You are all so awesome.

In other news, I got some amazing news this weekend: I am going to MB Fashion Week! Look forward in the upcoming weeks to fresh photos, news and runway fun.

Now, if you'll excuse me - I need to tear asunder my closet, and figure out what on Earth I am going to wear...

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