SS09 Runway Review: Gottex

There's something so hopeful about viewing a new swimsuit collection in September. It almost makes the upcoming winter seem like a momentary diversion from the excellent summer that awaits just a few calendar pages away. And what better way to fantasize about next summer than by viewing vivacious, dramatic suits by Gideon Oberson, in a collection that is as bold and bright as it is novel.



The collection centered heavily on objects incorporated into the apparel: anchors, orchids, leaves and even chopsticks were integrated into suits in all manner of curious ways. And while a few presented what might be considered slight physical debilitations (I am quite curious as to how one is supposed to swim in a suit with two chopsticks poking into your belly), the LOOK was really fantastic and inspiring. I particularly enjoy the anchor series, which utilizes ship anchors as the connector between the top and bottom of the suits. It never occurred to me how feminine the shape of an anchor actually was until Oberson laid it over the form of a woman, and now that he has I can't believe it is not used more often in this manner.


Images courtesy of Wire Image (via NYPost)

My only concern about this collection is that some of the reliance on objects could at times come precariously close to swinging over into kitsch; the worst offender a leaf encrusted shift, is a diaphanous affair whose bodice is entirely composed of gold-leaf leaves. The piece seemed more suited for a scene in Elizabeth Taylor's "Cleopatra" than the runway - it just felt a bit too theatrical for my tastes. However, this really was the only piece I didn't like in this collection - and I tip my hat to Gottex for successfully walking that thin red line between artistic and odd.

My positively favorite piece in the collection is the black orchid shift. The piece was one of the more abstract outfits in the collection, composed of soft lines, flowing, diaphanous material and an image of an orchid so enlarged it resembles a piece of modern art more than a flower. Sexy and casual, I could see this as easily paired for a night out as with a pair of jeans - i utterly covet it.



Oberson also gets kudos for integrating many decorations that would seem downright tricky to translate into swimwear. For instance, this was the last show I anticipated seeing fringe at, but lo and behold, Gottex has managed to create a fringe bathing suit top that bears all the elegance of a mink stole. The big bow bikini was also quite a pleaser.



Of course, I was positively tickled to see my beloved ombre made an appearance too, in a brilliant transition from tan to pink to orange. Good to see that this is a style that continues to be explored more this upcoming spring.