SS09 Runway Review: Doucette Duvall

Aw, what can I say about the Doucette Duvall show? I will say this, that my most surprising lesson from Fashion Week was how much more I thoroughly enjoyed the smaller, independent shows to the large-scale tent shows. Not only did the shows feel much more intimate and gratifying, but the work in them really blew my socks off, particularly the Doucette Duvall show, and the Nolcha shows, which I will reporting on in the next few days.



The show took place in Rockefeller Plaza, which immediately made me and several other attendees curious, as the plaza is not known for having an area to accommodate a catwalk. Upon arriving, we quickly discovered why one was not necessary: the label had made the decision to have the models stand in place, and the audience to move. The room was exquisitely designed with gold-gilt framed photographs of the collection, and a few lovely pieces of furniture for the models to pose around. In order to guide the flow of traffic, green apples had been placed along the floor, creating a delicate, delicious footpath. Everything was sweet and novel about the presentation, from the adorable foot socks worn by many of the models, to the tiny, bite-size cheeseburgers and fries that were being served as hors dourves throughout the presentation.



The collection itself was simply breathtaking. Classic forms were implemented and subtly upgraded with exquisite details of bows, scalloped edges, cloth roses and careful ruffles. These details provided soft, feminine touches that were perfectly suited to the tried and true cuts. Fabric prints were either floral or striped, which immediately brings to mind the french millinery period for me, though there was something extremely Americana and uppercrust to the feeling of the collection. I was very pleased to see well-spaced florals in the prints, rather than the jammed-up florals we have been seeing in the past seasons - there is something so much more delicate and timeless about these than the current trend to jam as many flowers into as small a scrap of fabric as possible.



The collection felt like it perfectly captured the moment of prepubescence longing for womanhood - outfits that felt innocent yet utterly sexually appealing - "Lolita" immediately comes to mind, which I always felt was positively wrong term for those ridiculous doll outfits worn by so many Japanese cosplay kids. Anyone who has read "Lolita" (which is an absolutely AMAZING book, and I highly reccommend), knows that THIS is the sexiness Nabakov writes of - that divine Americana innocence of the young girl trying to climb into the skin of womanhood.



The choice to have the models stand in one place was an excellent one. There was something so fitting about the outfits being caught in leisurely tableaus rather than rushed by the eye upon a catwalk. The coquettishness that resulted from models posing for numerous cameras focused on them by passerbys only aided to that sense of shy innocence, resulting in the perfect impressions of the costumes "in their natural habitat". It also reminded me of a prom or dinner party, with young girls being the the somewhat unwilling subject of photographs and attention thrust on them by relatives. The apples were also the perfect accessory: what better model of America, and also of temptation.



Stephanie Doucette and Annebet Duvall are big participants of environmental sustainability in their line. They manufacture their entire collections in New York City's historic garment district, and as well as contributing proceeds to Build it Green. Each collection they include a "little green dress" : a piece utilizing pre-existing fabric and trim as a reminder of their commitment to "Madame Earth." I am not sure if the green dress on the left is that dress from that collection, but a part of me thinks it might be, and it is certainly the most fitting, as it has "Earth Mother" written all over it, and is one of my favorites.



I have never been one to like things overstated - give me a feather to a sledgehammer any day of the week. And the thing I love about this collection is how subtle the grace in the pieces is - how it accomplishes making the woman wearing them look "dressed up" without being "dressed up" - which to me is the ultimate goal of fashion, creating a second skin that is intuitively suited to the wearer. It's even more inspiring to know that such lovely garments a coming from a line that is only 3 years old. Keep your eyes on Doucell Duvette - they will continue to make utterly covetable outfits, mark my words.